|
|
Post by Matt on Mar 10, 2007 0:07:16 GMT
Hi guys
Found a nice little surprise on the floor today. Turns out that the reps don't come house trained! (or garage trained!)
Basically, oil has leaked out of somewhere. It was around the bottom of the clutch cover, not alot, but enough. I havnt taken the clutch off yet. Before i get down and dirty! Does anybody know what need replacing? Do i need a knew gasket seal? Or a new drum seal? Or don't i need either? lol
Has anybody else had the problem?
Thanks!
|
|
|
|
Post by tony811976 on Mar 10, 2007 8:44:13 GMT
my clutch drum seal leaked soon after it first got warm  , my steering damper also leaked oil and as far as i can remember the lower end is not too far above the clutch casing. maybe dripping on to it?? when i changed my clutch the first time i had a hell of a time getting the nut off. i left the casing off to ride the bike and adjust the clutch after 3 mins or so it lost all bite and overrevved i looked down and there was no clutch  . no nut, no key way. it took me 10 mins to find the clutch in the hedge 30 yards away . next time ill make sure the nut is tight.  btw what is the locking fluid, or resin do they use on these bikes to keep the nuts on? it really does go off hard |
|
con
'L' Plates
Posts: 26
|
Post by con on Mar 10, 2007 21:38:00 GMT
i fitted gen polini gasket and drum seal to the transfere shaft/clutch casing , but it may be easier to buy a gen polini casing with the seal in it as theyre only £22 and the seal kit is £17 and a pig to fit without damaging it!
|
|
faucon
Stabilisers
!esreveR
Posts: 56
|
Post by faucon on Mar 11, 2007 2:36:57 GMT
...btw what is the locking fluid, or resin do they use on these bikes to keep the nuts on? it really does go off hard the treads are reverse. but the clutch loosing alote after a rebuilt, it alway take 5 minutes to me the found this bolt loose, at my last try, i lost all the clips and whashers that hold the 2 pads. the key way have a big gap so the cluth stay but start to get loose, like. so i push the clutch on a key way side and tight the nut after getting the treads hot whit a torch, cause i put red lock tight. so its not the bolt that loos but the clutch on its key. you may need to chk it after a couple of push on a track before racing it, after a rebuilt. i ride it careless now since i figure it out. |
|
faucon
Stabilisers
!esreveR
Posts: 56
|
Post by faucon on Mar 11, 2007 5:38:30 GMT
ho, first time i try my bike last years, one spring rod broke (no nylon stoper) and i destroy a clutch cover (i running those pads now) but the clutch was aloso every loose. this winter at a event, the clutch get loose and i burn all my clutch pads this way, it look like it take only 2 minutes to fry it, since there always a sound or something falling when she moving freely on its bad key way, yep, make sure its tight and secure.
|
|
|
|
Post by tony811976 on Mar 11, 2007 8:04:54 GMT
getting the threads white hot first mate is a big mistake firstly you will wreck the temper hardness of the crank everytime it gets hot. it gets softer. heating the threads will expand them and only make the nut feel tighter, when it cools down the nut will be looser than if you tightened it up cold plus the heat will warp the crank and maybe transfer further to the seals
|
|
faucon
Stabilisers
!esreveR
Posts: 56
|
Post by faucon on Mar 11, 2007 11:53:14 GMT
not that hot, just to get the red lock tight movable. i use a pensil torch for about less of 45 seconde and it unlock the bolt.
|
|
, my steering damper also leaked oil and as far as i can remember the lower end is not too far above the clutch casing. maybe dripping on to it??
